August 28, 2017

De Conciliis – Organic Vineyards in Campania


De Conciliis 2016 'Donnaluna' Fiano, Paestum
Retail:  $38.95 / btl  (6 btl/cs)

De Conciliis 2015 'Donnaluna' Aglianico, Paestum
Retail:  $38.95 / btl  (6 btl/cs)


About Viticoltori De Conciliis

There is a lot of buzz surrounding the revitalization of winemaking in Italy’s south and Bruno De Conciliis is among the influencers who have ‘inspired a new batch of young producers with wines of character that reflect [the] land and complement its delicious food.’ (Decanter)

Bruno & his family are dedicated to the production of wine from Campania’s best-known native grapes – Fiano and Aglianico. Located in the Cilento hills at 250 m, about 10 km from the sea directly inland from Agropoli and south of the remarkable Greek ruins at Paestum, the region benefits from a milder climate, leading to a fruitier, more approachable style of wine than mountainous appellations, but don’t be mistaken — these are complex, serious wines. This is also the region where the world’s best Mozzarella di Bufala is produced. The cellar is surprisingly modern (given it’s previous life as a chicken barn) and the wines are juicy, aromatic and fresh. Temperature controlled stainless steel is used for precise fermentations and aging is done in a mix of new and old French oak. In the vineyard, calcareous clay soil lends the wines nuanced aromatics and minerality. 25 ha of organically-farmed vineyards yield approximately 200,000 bottles annually. 

The De Conciliis family stopped supplying the local cooperative in 1990 and began bottling their own wine. Over the course of the last two decades their progress has been impressive and Bruno is a consummate student. There is a constant atmosphere of experimentation in the winery, fuelled by the music that regularly fills the space — in fact, ‘Naima’ is named after the John Coltrane song, while ‘Selim’ is an anagram of Miles, and ‘Bacio il Cielo’ is, well, you get the picture...  This experimentation leads to wines that are always slightly offbeat, and always interesting, as evidenced by their creation of the first sparkling Aglianico.

Both ‘Donnaluna’ Fiano and Aglianico are Certified Organic from the 2016 vintage.


'Donnaluna' Fiano

In the past we have offered Bacio il Cielo, the lively Fiano/Falanghina blend, but after tasting the 2016 Donnaluna Fiano in April, we were so taken the wine we decided to ‘upgrade’.

A hot, dry vintage required strict selection in the vineyard resulting in an unctuous Donnaluna that’s very complex and lush, but not heavy. Full malolactic was an appropriate technique to enhance the sexy body of this wine.


'Donnaluna' Aglianico

There is a small amount of Primitivo in the ‘field blend’, which brings a deeper fruitiness to the wine. Aged 50% in barrique/50% in inox, Donnaluna shows deep, dark fruit, excellent structure, and impressive complexity. Dusty tannins support the fruit and suggest medium-term cellaring. The vineyard, at 15-18 years, is reaching it’s prime. As Bruno says, this is a wine for a meal with family and friends.